MODERN INDIAN: SMALL PLATES & BIG FLAVOURS

Cyrus Todiwala DL, OBE,  is not only one of the UK’s most successful Indian restaurateurs, but he’s a well known figure on our TV screens.  A culinary genius whose name is synonymous with innovative dishes and mouth-watering flavours, Cyrus has transformed the landscape of Indian cooking in the UK and beyond. Add to that he’s a charming man, and manages to spare a considerable amount of time, alongside his wife Pervin, raising funds for a number of charities.  And he’s written some fabulous cookbooks, including the latest one, published just last week: Modern Indian.  This lovely book showcases inventive and delicious dishes for every occasion. Whether hosting an intimate gathering or a show-stopping celebration, Cyrus’s delicious recipes can be effortlessly scaled to suit our needs. These dishes are more than just food. They’re a journey through the vibrant and diverse world of Indian flavours, from savoury bites to sweet treats. In Modern Indian, Cyrus invites us to reimagine the art of Indian cooking, offering dishes that can be perfectly adapted for small plates or combined for fabulous feasts, each bursting with flavour and ingenuity. 

It’s published by White Lion Publishing at £22 for a lovely hardback. 

More About Cyrus Todiwala DL, OBE

Here are a few recipes from this latest book including Cyrus’s legendary Todiwala Tonic:

PAN-TOSSED CHICKPEAS & SPINACH

Sukha Chana Palakh

Serves 6 (as a side)

“Simply tossed spinach and other accompanying ingredients is regularly enjoyed across India. This is an easy one to bring together and one that you can play around with and add other flavours and textures (mushrooms and whey cheese work great, for example) to make it your own. Finish it off with a drizzle of double (heavy) cream or a spoonful of thick, drained yoghurt and see the difference it makes.”

2 tbsp butter

1 tsp cumin seeds

5 garlic cloves, crushed

2 large dried red chillies, broken into pieces and deseeded

2 long green chillies, chopped

2 onions, finely chopped

2 x 400g (14oz) tins of chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and liquid reserved

250g (9oz) spinach, finely sliced (see tip)

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro; optional)

In a large saucepan over a medium heat, melt the butter. Once the butter is foaming, add the cumin seeds and fry for 1 minute.

Add the garlic and two types of chillies and fry together for another 1–2 minutes. Add the onions and fry for 4–5 minutes then add the tinned chickpea liquid. Cook, stirring regularly, for 10 minutes until the liquid has reduced and the onions have softened but not browned.

Add the chickpeas, stir and leave to warm through.

Turn the heat to high and add the sliced spinach and cook for 2–3 minutes until fully wilted. Check for seasoning, stir in the coriander (if using) and serve.

TIP The best way to slice spinach leaves is to layer the leaves one over the other, six leaves at a time. Holding them down tight, shred as thinly as you can. If you want to make your sukha chana palakh in advance, prepare according to the recipe but once you’ve added the chickpeas, cool, transfer to an airtight container and chill in the fridge for up to three days. To serve, reheat and wilt in the spinach.

QUICK MANGO PICKLE

Aasan Aam Ka Achaar

Makes 600g (1lb 5 ¼ oz)

“India alone has about 1,500 varieties of mango, ranging from the super-sweet and pulpy to the small and largeseeded, which aren’t as good to eat. Across the country, hundreds of different mango pickles are made using the mangoes that are not good to be sold for the table, but that are full of flavour and make excellent condiments. This is a simple Keralan recipe, which ideally uses small, green mangoes. However, a semi-ripe mango will also work.”

500g (1lb 2oz) green or semiripe mango, peeled, destoned and chopped

2 tsp flaked sea salt

1 ½ tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder

1 ½ tsp ground turmeric

6 tbsp neutral oil

3 tsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp fenugreek seeds

4 long green chillies, slit

1 tsp asafoetida

20 fresh curry leaves, shredded

In a heatproof bowl, combine the chopped mango, salt, chilli powder and turmeric and mix well until the mango is well coated.

In a small but deep saucepan over a medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add a few mustard seeds to see if the oil is at the right

temperature. When they pop, add the remaining mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and green chillies. As soon as the chilli changes colour slightly, add the asafoetida and curry leaves and turn off the heat.

Pour this hot mixture over the mango and mix well. Set aside to cool completely.

Transfer the cooled pickle into a sterilised jar and store it in the fridge for up to one year.

TODIWALA TONIC

Todiwala Khaandanin Toneek

Makes 60 servings

“When I was ill as a child, Mum and Dad used to prepare this drink for me with much hard work. Today, we have blenders that can do the job in a jiffy, but back then that was not the case. I still always have a jar of this tonic at hand and it’s become popular with friends if they’re feeling under the weather. We take 1 tablespoon three or four times a day, if unwell, avoiding caffeine and no other liquids for 30 minutes thereafter.”

1kg (2lb 4oz) runny honey (ideally local and organic), warmed

200g (7oz) organic fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

100g (3 ½ oz) organic ground turmeric

20g (¾ oz) organic ground cinnamon

 

Place the jar(s) of honey in a large pan of just-boiled water to warm and loosen it.

 

Add the ginger, turmeric and cinnamon to a blender. Pour over the warm, runny honey and blend until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the blender and blend again.

 

Pour the tonic into sterilised jars and chill in the fridge for up to 3 months. Bring to room temperature before consuming when you need a restorative – 1 tablespoon three times a day.