Farnham isn’t that far to travel, especially with warmer days promised, and summer days out to start to plan.  We stopped at The Third Monkey recently en route to a weekend in Dorset, and having enjoyed an amazing lunch, I can perfectly see why this is a place totally befitting the ‘speak no evil’ folklore of the third monkey. 

The Third Monkey

The independently-owned, former Liberal club, opened last year, and  is the latest project from chef Adam Fisher (ex Coworth Park and Pennyhill Park), so we figured he’d know a thing or two about Michelin quality food…we were right. 

This building, in central Farnham, has a gastropub on the ground floor, a more ambitious, design led  restaurant upstairs and a roof terrace for sunny days, and we were lucky enough to visit on one of the rare sunny spring days we’ve enjoyed recently.  There is even an on-site butchery.

The menu is built around ultra seasonal British produce, and it moves between refined smaller plates and bigger sharing dishes. 

There is also an excellent value set lunch on weekdays at £28 for two courses and £32 for three.  

Our Visit

We settled ourselves in a corner of the terrace, enjoying the sunshine, and Annekatrina, the manager, took us through the menu.  The set lunch was so tempting that we decided to switch around and choose one dish for each course from that and the other from the main menu.  While I enjoyed a G&T (Monkey 47 of course) my husband was pleased to discover that Guinness 0.0 is on draught.  But as it was such a warm day, he opted for the Heineken 0.0, also on draught.

My starter was from that day’s set lunch: New Forest asparagus, confit egg yolk, elderflower hollandaise, feta, peas and broad beans.  The asparagus was cooked al dente, and the sweet, fresh broad beans had been podded.  There was a subtle sweetness and fragrance to the hollandaise from the elderflower and the inspired addition of cubes of feta added the perfect amount of saltiness.  This was a beautifully presented dish, with a fine dining sophistication rarely found on a set lunch menu.

My husband chose the lychee marinated Chalk Stream trout, whipped wasabi cream, fennel & cucumber kimchi from the main menu.  The fennel and cucumber were a match made in heaven for the beautiful local trout that had been wrapped in seaweed.  The wasabi cream on top paired beautifully with the lychee confit and the whole ensemble was declared refreshingly delicious.

The assiette of Kentish lamb – cannon, shoulder scrumpet, sweetbreads, spiced lamb jam, courgette, and lovage – stood out to me from the main menu. It was another beautifully presented dish, worthy of some of the finest multi Michelin-starred restaurants I have been lucky enough to visit.  The cannon, shoulder scrumpet and sweetbreads, were all so well executed, each bringing different textures while still working together cohesively.  The spice-led lamb jam, courgette and lovage added another level of flavours, and structure. This really was a standout dish.  Annekarina suggested a side of seasonal greens in brown butter, which paired beautifully.  

The Wagyu beefburger, topped with sriracha mayonnaise and pickled red onion slices, served with hand cut beef dripping chips – from the set lunch – was a very generous portion, again stylishly served. It was thoroughly enjoyed, and the portion was so generous that the chips were almost redundant. But they were so deliciously spiced and crispy that I helped finish the last few.  The only annoying thing was that the burger was served on a piece of waxed paper – a nod to more downmarket or American establishments perhaps – but we felt it didn’t do justice to the quality of the dish.

Having enjoyed our first two courses so much, it seemed a shame not to investigate the desserts. Valrhona 64% Manjari Set Chocolate, Bailey’s mousse, hazelnuts from the main menu was chosen by my husband, while I opted for the lemon and thyme cheesecake with honey ice cream from the set lunch.  

As if we weren’t already in for an overdose of sweetness, Annekatrina was naughty and  also brought us a portion of the signature dessert. It was The Third Monkey sticky toffee pudding, salted caramel ‘Baked Alaska’ ice cream. 

My ‘cheesecake’ was a deconstructed and very different version, but imbued with the same skill as the other dishes.  It was delightfully citrus, palate cleansing and the lemony note of the thyme was a perfect pairing.  

The chocolate dessert was hoovered up very quickly, so I didn’t manage to swipe a spoonful, but it was, apparently, very rich and indulgent.

We certainly didn’t need anything else, especially something as rich as sticky toffee pudding, but having had a small taste of it, I can fully appreciate the restaurant’s keenness for us to try it.  Served on a massive plate, it was so luxurious and moist.  It was in a lake of salted caramel, and had a topping of Italian meringue over the salted caramel ice cream, demonstrating playfulness and skill in the kitchen.  It was incredibly rich and unctuous and needless to say, we weren’t able to do it full justice.

The wine list is well composed, and I thoroughly enjoyed the glass of house Negroamaro, Il Pumo, San Marzano red with my lamb. Wines start at £32 a bottle and there are plenty available by the glass starting at £8.

A Sunday lunch menu with a very tempting range of choices, that aren’t all roasts, is just £45 for two courses and £52 for three.  The chef also caters well for vegetarians and pescatarians.  

To summarise, we were blown away by the quality and value for money of The Third Monkey.   

I just wish Farnham was a little bit nearer.

thirdmonkeyfarnham.com
46 South St,
Farnham GU9 7RP