If you’ve ever been to the Basque region of Spain, you’ll have discovered the wonderful food that’s associated with the area.
I recall the most fabulous pintxos in downtown Biarritz, and one of the most delicious (and best value) Spanish meals I’ve ever eaten.
And now I can introduce you to a lovely new book that will take you on a virtual tour of this region…La Cocina Vasca, by María José Sevilla.
It was published last month by Ryland Peters and Small at £22 for a beautifully illustrated hardback book.
About the Book
In Cocina Vasca, María José takes readers on an illuminating tour of the Basque region.
Along the way she introduces iconic ingredients, unique cooking techniques and traditional dishes that have inspired some of today’s most celebrated chefs. An introduction to Basque cooking, ranging from those aforementioned bite-sized tapas known as pintxos, to more substantial fish and meat plates as well as delicious desserts, including, of course, the legendary Basque Cheesecake.
Essays that shine a light on the most interesting aspects of historical food traditions, as well as the modern scene, are set against a backdrop of the stunning images of the people and surrounding landscape.
About María José
María José is an expert in Hispanic gastronomy and viticulture. She has written a number of books including Cocina de Andalucia which I reviewed a while ago.
She is a member of the Guild of Food Writers, and a member of the Grand Order of Wine Knights (the highest recognition of experts in the field).
She holds the Diploma of The Wine and Spirit Education Trust and is also a Glenfiddich award winner.
Here, for your mouth watering trip to Spain, are a few recipes from this lovely book.
Sardinillas con guacamole en tostada
GUACAMOLE ON TOAST WITH SILVER SARDINES
“The Basque Country is a major producer of canned fish, including tuna, anchovies, sardines and sardinillas, which are tiny silver sardines – a true delicacy. Although guacamole is Mexican in origin, since the 1980s, it has been used frequently in the preparation of pintxos. If you cannot find a Serrano pepper, use any other similar variety of green chilli pepper. Do not make the guacamole too far in advance, as it will quickly discolour.”
12 baguette slices, toasted
125 g sardinillas (small silver sardines) canned in olive oil
GUACAMOLE
2 ripe avocados
100 g red or white onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 small tomato, skinned, deseeded and finely chopped
½ Serrano chilli pepper (or use jalapeño), deseeded and finely chopped
30 g coriander leaves, roughly chopped
juice of 1⁄2 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 cocktail sticks (optional)
MAKES 12
First, make the guacamole. Halve the avocados and remove the large stones. Scoop out the avocado flesh into a mixing bowl and roughly mash with a fork. (Do not make the avocado completely smooth.) Fold in the chopped onion, tomato, chilli and coriander. Squeeze in the lime juice and season with plenty of salt and black pepper. Taste and adjust the lime juice, if needed.
Spoon some guacamole onto each slice of toast and place a small silver sardine on top. Drizzle each sardine with a few drops of olive oil from the can. Sprinkle over plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Spear with a cocktail stick to secure, if preferred.
Huevos en cazuela
EGGS WITH CHORIZO, HAM, PEPPER, ASPARAGUS & PEAS
“Also know as al plato, this is a Basque version of a dish that is prepared in many parts of Spain. A very simple, highly versatile dish that makes the perfect brunch.”
150 g tomato sauce (see below)
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons Spanish extra virgin olive oil
25 g chorizo, sliced
25 g Serrano ham, chopped
4 green asparagus spears, lightly boiled
75 g peas (fresh or frozen), lightly boiled
1 roasted red (bell) pepper (canned or jarred), sliced
salt, to taste
slices of bread, to serve
TOMATO SAUCE
1 x 400-g can cherry tomatoes
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons Spanish olive oil
pinch of salt
pinch of sugar
SERVES 4
First, make the tomato sauce. Tip the canned cherry tomatoes into a food processor or blender, then blitz until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any skins or seeds.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan. Add the garlic and sauté until it takes on a little colour. Pour the blitzed tomatoes into the pan, then stir in the salt and sugar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover and very gently cook for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Set aside to cool.
Generously coat a frying pan with olive oil. If you have one, a traditional Basque cazuela (earthenware pot) is even better. Cover the base of the pan or pot with half of the tomato sauce. Make four wells in the sauce, then carefully crack an egg into each one. Take care not to break the yolks. Season with some salt.
Pour the remaining tomato sauce into the pan or pot around the eggs. Arrange the rest of the ingredients around the pan so that they are all visible. Cook over a medium heat until the egg whites have set but the egg yolks are still runny. Serve with slices of good bread.
Lomo de cerdo con leche
MILK-BRAISED PORK LOIN
“This is a festive pork recipe, which is often included in traditional Basque cookbooks. I happily prepare it any time of the year. The sauce is quite unique; it is essential to keep an eye on it while cooking, controlling the temperature and stirring frequently so the meat does not stick to the bottom of the pan – you may need to add extra milk, if needed. The meat will become very tender and the sauce will take on the wonderful colour of café con leche (milky coffee). I serve mine with creamy mashed potatoes and green vegetables.”
2 tablespoons Spanish extra virgin olive oil
1.2 kg boneless pork loin, in one piece
2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
full-fat milk (enough to cover the pork)
2 bay leaves (fresh or dried)
a pinch of ground white pepper
a pinch of salt
TO SERVE
buttery mashed potatoes or steamed white rice
grilled or steamed green vegetables
SERVES 6
Heat the olive oil in a deep saucepan. Add the pork and seal the meat until it takes on some colour. Add the garlic cloves to the pan and cook for a further minute. Remove and discard the garlic.
Pour in enough milk to cover the pork, then add the bay leaves and sprinkle in the white pepper and salt. Bring the milk to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring frequently, for about 45 minutes or until the milk has reduced to a very creamy texture and turned darker in colour. Do not overcook the milk sauce or the milk solids and liquid will split, looking rather like ricotta.
When ready, cut the pork into thick slices and serve either hot or cold on buttery mashed potatoes or steamed white rice, and smothered in the creamy sauce. Serve some grilled or steamed green vegetables alongside, if you like.
